A couple of nights ago, Brent and I watched My Octopus Teacher on Netflix. It was a great way to end Valentine’s Day! The filmmaker made this beautifully shot film at a time when he was depressed, disengaged from his family and quite directionless. He knew he needed to make a big change in his life and the only way he could see that happening was if he not only got back to nature, but more importantly he needed to be immersed in it. Watch the film. I’m still an emotional wreck. 

I realize this trip  to Costa Rica has given me the opportunity to get back to nature. I was raised in a small town and as kids we were always outside. We’d come in at supper. Our careers were in Toronto, and although city living curtailed the outdoor experience a bit, I still managed to spend a few hours a day outside either running, walking the dogs or on yard duty; even in minus below 0 temperatures. Some people can’t fathom this, but I literally feel off keel if I don’t spend time outside. 

I’d say our trip to the OSA Peninsula and Corcovado Park was the ultimate nature experience. According to National Geographic, Corcovado  Park is the “ the most biologically intense area in the world when it comes to biodiversity”. We chose to take a day trip to the park, but you can arrange overnights and multi-day treks. With Brent’s fake knee and it’s limitations, we figured one day would be sufficient. 

You have to have a guide to enter the Park, and for good reason. Remember, they are trained to see wildlife and they  can navigate the Park. It’s huge with multiple entry points and you can easily get lost. There is a quota on the number of visitors per day. Also, it can be dangerous; think big cats! 

By chance we came across our guide the day before in Manuel Antonia. We picked up Mop, our guide, at 5 am and drove the two hours to Sierpe. After a little coffee and breakfast, we took a boat along the Sierpe River for about an hour and a half. It was low tide so we walked over the wet, rocky shore to the entrance of the park. Our small grouped hiked for a couple of hours in the morning with our guides spotting the animals and amazing birds. If it wasn’t for the guides, Brent and I wouldn’t have spotted a thing. We actually saw a Tapir sleeping in shallow water. Usually, at this time of year, they are high up in the mountains seeking wetter conditions. It was pretty amazing! 

We made our way to the Siera Ranger Station, the most desired in the park as an older landing strip provides a natural crossing for the animals. After a prepared lunch, we continued our trek for another hour and a half along  the waters edge. I was able to see my first croc and a shark about 20 meters away. Everyone kept telling me that I’d see crocs and caiman all over Costa Rica, but I didn’t. Again, Mother Nature rules, not us. 

As we made our way back into Sierpe, we toured the Mangroves only to see more white faced monkeys, a sloth and a couple of Scarlet Mccaws. This trip was truly a highlight for me. 

The next day, we decided not to go to Puerto Jimenez, rather we headed to Pavones near the Panama border. It is one of the three most recognized kite spots in the country, but unfortunately there was no wind, so no kiteboarding for Brent. We ended up doing errands in the surrounding area. Although you can kite, the area is known for world renowned surfing boasting the longest left roll in the region if not the world. 

Pavones is very remote with some gnarly roads. The residents prefer it this way because they want to stay underdeveloped, although they understand the importance of tourism. This tight knit community just got electricity in 1995 and the internet 10 years ago. The day we arrived, there was a scheduled electricity shutdown for maintenance. That would go over well in Toronto! Anyway, do a little research on the area; it has a very colourful history. 

Driving around the area, we saw thousands of Palm trees; the kind used to produce palm oil. Now, I know the controversy around the use of palm oil, but it’s one thing to read about it, and another to see it up close. I was shocked by the amount of real estate these plantations occupied. I could see how they have destroyed the original forests and animal habitats. For sure, there are some people, many foreigners, making lots of money. We saw two factories that employ thousands of Costa Ricans. I know there are lots of environmentalists who would like to see the palm oil industry demolished, but in doing so thousands of local families would go down with it. I’m not sure the county could afford this considering it is currently negotiating with the IMF for much needed capital to invest in its declining economy. 

After a short stay in the region, we headed to our last stop on the Costa Rican tour, Paraiso Quetzal Lodge located about 75 km south of San Jose. Close by is the Los Quetzales National Park located in the cloud forest. The area is famous for birdwatching, particularly for the jewel, the Quetzal. 

We drove the PanAmerican Highway through heavy rain and hairpin turns. These seem to be normal conditions when you are in the cloud forests. The elevation can get up to a little over 3000 meters and temperatures range between 5-14 degrees Celsius. 

Brent and I have been winging most of our trip, so I didn’t realize the drop in temperature was so significant. Honestly, who knew we’d experience such crazy cold temperatures in Costa Rica. When we got to our little suite, there were five fleece blankets on the bed and a space heater. The main lodge had a wood burning fireplace going at all times. It reminded me of a winter’s night at home! 

After an interesting sleep, we put on our winter clothes we brought with us, and met our guide David to go find some Quetzales. After a short drive to his uncle’s farm and about a 45 minute wait, we managed to see 4 Quetzals in all their glory; one female and four males. David said this was very rare and contributed our good fortune to our positive vibe. I can honestly say birdwatching isn’t Brent’s favourite thing to do, but he humours me and enjoys seeing the wildlife. I think my vibe makes up for both both of us. 

I loved being at the Lodge and its breathtaking sunrises and sunsets; the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Even though I was cold and wet the entire time, it was well worth it. Nature isn’t always predictable and it will always present itself in its own way.