Brent & Kelly ~ Old and Mobile

View Original

Travel to Puglia Italy

After 7 months in Europe, it was time to plan our exit strategy to return home. We had a few more weeks to explore before picking up our luggage that we had left behind in Montenegro 5 months prior and catching our flight back to Toronto, Canada. We left Slovenia and soldiered on to Puglia, Italy. There was no easy way to get back to Montenegro from Ljubljana without going back to Bari, Italy, taking a ferry across to Albania, and then a bus to Montenegro. Sounds complicated. Welcome to our world. Sometimes, there’s no straight path that leads us where we want to go, and that’s okay with us.

We took what would be one of our final train rides in Europe from Ljubljana to Villach, a small village in Austria. Even though we were there for less than 24 hours, we had a great hike along the river, explored the cobblestone town, and I spent some much needed quiet time in a local cafe watching the locals and reading.

The next morning, we made our way back to the train station and returned to Italy, specifically Bologna, to celebrate our Canadian Thanksgiving. Bologna was another moment in time for me. I don’t know why, but our walk through old town and the homemade pasta dinner at Mattarello was special. Maybe I was sentimental because our Canadian Thanksgiving is a time for family and friends, the leaves are changing, the weather is getting colder and it’s time to prepare for winter, and although I was an ocean away, I think I was emotionally preparing to go back home again. Whatever the reason, I loved my less than 24 hours in Bologna.

Two Towers of Bologna

The next morning, we took yet another train to Bari, a city in the Puglia region of Italy. We would spend 4 days exploring mostly the southern area of Puglia. Our Airbnb was within walking distance to Old Town, a beautiful port city with meandering cobblestone paths, restaurants, museums and shops. A couple of weeks before arriving in Bari, an Italian from Milan told me in no uncertain terms that Bari was a “shi*hole” and questioned why we would stay there. Well, we didn’t have a choice as we were catching the ferry from Bari to Albania, and although his comments made me a bit apprehensive, I’ve learned to believe 50% of what people tell me, follow my own heart, and make my own experiences. I’m glad I did as touring Bari was top-notch, especially finding “Strada Delle Orecchiette” - the street where you will find the local woman selling fresh orecchiette or “little ears” - the iconic pasta of Puglia. We spent a few hours getting lost in this medieval port and enjoying a lovely pasta meal, dessert and cappuccino. Honestly, could life get better?

On Day 2, we took the train further south to Polignano a Mare - a small town located on the cliffs, and home of singer/songwriter Domenico Modugno; famous for the song Volare. Don’t forget to look for his statue! After strolling the enchanting town, we booked a small boat charter and toured the coastline. It was a great way to see the coastline, hear some local stories, and drink a little Prosecco. I highly recommend taking an afternoon cruise so you can take in the amazing views of The Grotta Palazzese - the restaurant nestled in the cliffs, and the rocky beach right in town.

On our last day in Puglia, we took our rental car a bit further south to visit both Alberobello and Matera. Alberobello is home to the Trulli houses. The trulli are limestone, prehistoric dwellings that are pyramidal in shape with conical roofs. Alberobello has the highest number and best preserved Trullo in the region, and The Trulli (plural) of Alberobello were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1996.

Needing only a couple of hours in Alberobello, we headed to Matera, the capital city of the Province of Matera in the region of Basilicata. This unique city dates back to the Palaeolithic times. It is a series of cave systems known as the Sassi. The inhabitants excavated the limestone to form a network of stairs, paths and courtyards. By the 13th century, the Sassi became overcrowded with a distinct division between the classes with the very poor living in the caves. Thought of as a disgrace, the Italian government forced the locals to settle in modern accommodations in the 1950s. The Sassi of Materia has been listed on the World Heritage list and attracts tourists from across the world.

After exploring the city and having a fabulous lunch, we headed back to Bari to catch our ferry to the port in Duress, Albania. There are many ferries that run from Italy to Croatia, Montenegro and Albania and it’s usually no problem getting tickets, even in high season. We spent the night in Duress, a beach spot for locals and tourists in the know, before making our way to the capital city of Tirana. We took a couple of hours to tour the city centre where we were reminded of the atrocities the Albanians suffered during the Kosovo war. We recommend heading to Albania as it’s rich in history and the beaches are becoming a hotspot with tourists.

We had one final bus ride to Montenegro to see friends and pick up our luggage before catching our plane back to Toronto to “settle” back down again after 3.5 years on the road. “Settle” is a loose term as there is so much more to explore!

Watch here for our Puglia video episodes on Youtube:

Puglia Part 1: https://youtu.be/n1w5LXH2Bbg?si=z_jJWswOYTPaUJKZ

Puglia Part 2: https://youtu.be/D03P5HKuV94?si=-5IJRCQ8mGLfY9wM

Cheers everyone and remember to Dream Big!