La Ventana, Baja California
We’ve been in Baja for three months now, specifically in the La Ventana area and so far it has exceeded our expectations. Brent is in his glory as he is kiting almost every day and I’ve been able to immerse myself into the community. We’ve found our groove.
La Ventana has a population of a few thousand people with a mix of local Mexican families, wind seekers who have been coming for 20 years buying property for a pittance, and the newcomers who heard it was a kite destination. It’s a mix of RVers, campers, and van lifers. It’s definitely got a vibe. Although that vibe is changing according to some old-timers, and maybe not for the better. What used to be a laid-back, almost “hippie” feel of the ‘60s is evolving into a slightly more urbanized culture as more money flows into the community along with bigger houses and trendy coffee shops. As I drive the community, I look for the balance of the cultures and wonder where on the continuum it is, and more importantly, when or if this symbiotic relationship will tip to no longer benefit the original community. We can only hope this doesn’t happen.
If you do come to the area, you’ll need a place to stay. There are a variety of options including home rentals, campgrounds, hotels, hostels and boon docking in the arroyles. Just look in the The Ventana View or Airbnb. We were lucky to find an amazing site on a private property in El Sargento, just north of La Ventana. The two villages literally meld into one another and so far we prefer where we are as it’s close to some amazing beaches to launch (or hang out) and it’s quiet at night, aside from the occasional vacas wondering; a common occurrence in these parts.
If you are a kiteboarder and have been dreaming of strong winds, then you need to make your way to La Ventana. It’s been a destination spot for wind sports for years because of the thermal winds. Today, you will find the beaches lined with kiters, and wing and kite foilers. The energy level on strong wind days is palpable as the wind seekers race to their favourite access point and prepare to launch into an afternoon of exhilaration. Conversely, the place has an edge to it on non-wind days as those exact same wind chasers walk around sad and mopey looking as though they lost their best friend!
As a non-kiter, I have found lots to do regardless of the wind. I started taking Spanish lessons at Paty's Spanish Classes twice a week and doing daily homework; I’m remembering what it’s like to be a student again! Although I don’t pick up languages easily, it’s been fun trying to use what I’ve learned when I’m out and about in the community. I’m not sure the locals are sharing in my enthusiasm!
I’m also attending yoga classes with KayKay at Baja Joes twice a week taking in her wealth of experience and expertise she brings to both her vinyasa and yin classes. There are other yoga locations to attend including those at Casa Verde , and if you want even more in-depth wellness retreats, check out Casa Tara Hotel - Wellness Yoga Retreat.
In addition to these activities, there is always mountain biking through the local trails. Make sure you download the All Trails app to get the right trail for you. Although we’ve biked with our hybrids, you really need a mountain bike or E-bike to get through the sandy mountain trails. You can rent both in town.
If that isn’t enough to keep you busy, you can always take kite lessons, snorkel, hike (go to Punta Gorda), fish, tour the lighthouse area or take a boat ride to Cerralvo Island, sometimes called Jacques Cousteau Island and a World Heritage site by UNESCO. All of these activities can be arranged by a variety of operators around the village and hotels.
I would highly recommend booking a tour at Rancho Cacachilas. Owned by philanthropist, Chrissy Walton, Rancho Cacachilas is approximately 36, 000 hectares and part of the Sierra Cacachilas mountains. We were fortunate to book a half day hike which was followed by a cheese and vino tasting (who drinks wine after hiking 3 hours - apparently I do now), and then a fabulous lunch made with ingredients grown on the farm. Check out their website for other tour details, glamping and special farm to table dinners.
Speaking of food; a favourite topic of mine. If you need basic groceries, pop by Oscaritos Grocery or make a drive to La Paz for your bigger grocery hauls. There are plenty of grocery stores there, along with the ubiquitous Walmart. Also, you will have plenty of places to eat in town from roadside stands offering local dishes (usually at a cheaper price), coffee shops and restaurants. Brent and I don’t eat out a lot, but I would recommend eating at Playa Central for fresh guacamole made tableside; Baja Joes , Kijote Craft Coffee Roasters, and Cafe Bar Km-0 for your morning coffee (check out the upstairs bakery too), Taqueria "Doña Paty" for hands down the best Mexican food and Casa Tara for a special occasion. You can check out my birthday celebration we had there…beautiful… Kelly's Birthday at Casa Tara. Again, there are so many places to choose, and remember I’m a vegetarian and am finding lots to eat.
So whether you are a kiter or not, La Ventana and El Sargento are definitely worth the visit for a short holiday, and if you are lucky enough to have a bit more time, like us, then plan on a longer stay so you can really dive in.
