Golan to Nazareth Israel
I cannot express how happy I was to be heading into Northern Israel. We’d been touring mostly cities and I needed to get back to nature and outdoor spaces. That’s a pretty accurate description of the Golan area; lots of open fields, greenery and farmland. It was so peaceful which is ironic considering its’ sorted history.
In 1967, Isreal invaded and captured the area from Syria during the Six-Day War and then in 1974, Syria made a failed attempt at taking it back, in what was called the Yom Kippur War. Today, the UN monitors the demilitarized zone. That’s a lot of history summarized in three lines so let me suggest you do your own research as I’m sure I missed a few important details.
Driving The Golan
I have to say I was a bit nervous going to the Golan because of its’ history and ongoing issues, and I really didn’t know what to expect. I know Brent really wanted to see it because his father had served in the Golan on a UN Peace Mission in 1974, and both his parents were able to tour parts of Israel, Syria, Lebanon and Egypt at the time. I also know he had done his research and really wanted to see the Mt Hermon Ski Resort - yes, you read that right. Israel has a ski resort! The resort is located on the South-Eastern slopes of Mt Hermon, just a few kilometres from the “Purple Line”; the ceasefire line between Israel and Syria.
Before heading to the ski resort, we hiked the Banias Falls located in the Banias Nature Reserve. You can hike two different areas; a shorter hike to the Banias Waterfall and a longer hike to see ancient ruins. Being early Spring, we were lucky enough to see a lot of fauna and new growth on the trees. Although the Falls weren’t as impressive as Niagara Falls or the Iguazu Falls in Argentina, they were mighty impressive considering 60% of the country is desert.
Us at Banias Falls
After our short hike, we headed North through switchbacks and small towns to the Mt Hermon Ski Resort entrance where we paid an exorbitant entrance fee that didn’t include the Gondola ride; that was extra! Did I mention Israel is expensive? Regardless of the cost, it was so worth the trip. The view of the Golan at the summit, a mere 6,690 ft, was breathtaking. It was hard to imagine that 56 years earlier, the area looked so very different. Yet, once we turned around from the view, that time in history became very real as not too far in the distance was an Israeli Military base. I still can’t get that through my head - a military restriction zone right off the Gondola. It felt quite surreal.
After our short stay at the resort and lots of shekels later, we headed south through the Golan to our final destination of Tiberias where we would be staying during while touring Nazareth. We did manage to stop at Tel Winery for a nice Rose. Golan is well known for its’ wine and I highly recommend a dedicated “tasting day”.
With wine in hand, we continued south to Tiberias passing through Capernaum, both areas with religious significance and where Jesus performed many miracles. In Tiberias, we stayed at Casa Nova, a pilgrimage suggested by friends. The Sanctuary and Parish is steeped in history and has been a respite for pilgrims. As we entered Tiberias, we got our first glimpse of the Sea of Galilee, albeit through the drizzle and fog. I’ve heard about the Sea of Galilee since childhood Sunday school, so it was interesting to see it and begin to piece the stories together. That being said, I abhor the seaside boardwalk; it looks like a circus act.
Casa Nova Pilgrimage
After a restful sleep, we drove the 40 minutes to Nazareth. Driving the Old City of Nazareth is not for the faint of heart and parking can be a nightmare, so let us suggest that you stay outside of Nazareth or take a guided tour where they pick you up in one of those large coach buses. We chose to stay in Tiberias for a second night - thank you Jesus. We started our self-guided tour with the Church of Annunciation, The Holy Caves, Mary’s Well, The White Mosque and The Greek Orthodox Church followed by a walk through the Old Market hunting for Fahoum, the oldest coffee roastery in the city, and Abo Salem - the oldest coffee shop. Of course they were both closed making me a very sad coffee lover. On our drive back to Tiberias, we took a detour to the Salesian Church, where Jesus spent his youth, and to get a final glimpse of Nazareth.
Nazareth
Our two days in Golan and Nazareth provided time for much reflection as we continued our adventures in Israel. Both are highly recommended!
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Cheers!
