A Week In Ireland

After a few days in the Cotswolds, it was time to leave for the Emerald Isle - Ireland. We spent a couple of nights in Conway - a sweet, summer recreational town - before heading to Holyhead where we boarded the Irish Ferries for a short boat ride across the Irish Sea to the Dublin Port.

We were in Dublin for one night and quite frankly that was enough. It’s evident the city, like so many cities worldwide, has a drug and homeless issue, especially in the core. We did manage to find our way to the Temple Bar area - even though we were warned by friends not to be “fake” Irish. Yes - we got caught up in the tourist trap and we unabashedly admit we had a great night filled with a few pints and some legit Irish music.

The next day, we picked up our rental van or should I say ‘cargo’ van. I tried to secure a ‘real’ camper van, but to no avail, so we booked the next best thing. After a pit stop to Ikea to outfit our new home with a mattress and some bedding, we headed to the Greyrocks area. Here, we met up with our future son-in-law’s parents for a quick lunch at “The Happy Pear”, a vegan cafe that I’ve kept tabs on for years now. It was precious breaking bread with family; something we don’t get to do often on our full-time travels.

Following lunch, we wild camped (meaning in the parking lot with no services), about an hour away in a beautiful part of the country called, Glendalough or “valley of the two lakes”. Following our trusty app, Park4free, we found an overnight spot by the Upper lake in the Wicklow National Park. It was a restful first night and in the morning, after a quick hike, we took a dip in the lake before heading out again. Frequently, Marty takes a swim in the cold seas so I thought it was a good tradition to tuck into while in Ireland. But let's not get hasty - there was no swimming - just dipping - I almost froze my woman parts in that icy water!

We continued our travels south hoping to find a suitable campsite in Tramore, but first we toured the “Rock of Cashel” in Tipperary County. A wildly popular tourist site, the Rock of Cashel is composed of medieval buildings and it’s the original seat of the kings of Munster. It was pretty impressive and a great way to break up the drive.

We arrived in Tramore in the middle of a wicked storm; the rain was pelting down and it looked like it had no intention of letting up. Tramore is located in the southwest and a hotspot for surfing, kitesurfing and windsurfing and despite the weather, there were a few hardcore surfers in the water. I love commitment! You can catch more of the storm on our Youtube channel here: Ireland in a Cargo Van! After dinner, we hunkered down in the parking lot of the Guillamene Swimming Cove and dove into another cold plunge in the morning. This time, we weren’t alone as members of the Guillamene Swim Club showed up for their early morning swim before heading to work, something they’ve been doing for 70 years. It was an honour to be part of the group even for just one morning.

With renewed energy, we hit the road for Dingle. We followed the Ring of Kerry for a good part of the day making a pit stop to hike the Carrauntoohil, the highest peak in Ireland. The hike itself was very challenging and the weather wasn’t cooperating, so we abandoned the hike a few hours in. Regardless, it was an absolutely cracker of a hike and we highly recommend it. In desperate need of a shower and a “proper” bed, we opted to stay in a local B & B for the night. With no reservations, we simply knocked on the door and paid in cash. After dropping off our bags and a quick shower, we headed to town for a night of music and Irish Step Dancing at a local pub.

The next day, we got up early to drive the Slea Head Drive - a must if you are in the area - around the Peninsula. It was one of the most beautiful roads we’ve driven with many tight turns and narrow bits but nothing that couldn’t be managed. The views of the small villages and Atlantic coastline were incredible.

We continued our drive North on the Conor Pass, a narrow and somewhat scary drive, as the road disappeared into the morning haze on many a turn. But after a few hours, we made it to the obligatory Cliffs of Moher. I can see why this tourist attraction gets over 1 million visitors a year. The Cliffs of Moher hiking trail is 14 Km long running from Doonhil to Liscanner with the highest cliff peak located around the Visitor’s Center. The views are stunning and well worth the trip.

Following another deep sleep in Avis (we figured it was appropriate as his name was already written on his exterior), we headed to what I think was the most beautiful part of the country - Malin Beg, just under 5 hours northwest. After maneuvering around the sheep, we descended the approximately 170 steps to Silver Strand Beach where we took yet another evening plunge and watched the sunset, followed by an early morning hike of the Sliag Liag Walk. The Slieve League Cliffs are located about an hour south of Donegal and are the highest accessible cliffs in Ireland. There are a couple of ways to hike the area, but we chose the “easier” one to end this part of the trip. After an easy 30 minute jaunt to the platform, we took in all the beauty of the area. Have I mentioned how truly lucky we are?

Finally after returning Avis to his rightful owners, we took the train to Belfast to enjoy a couple of days touring the sights including a great meal in the Cathedral Quarter and a walking tour focusing on “the Troubles”. We booked our trip with Arthur through Airbnb and we’d highly recommend you do the same for “no nonsense” historical and political commentary.

We hope you enjoyed our journey through Ireland and hope you get there soon. The people are so friendly, the countryside absolutely breathtaking and the sheep - well, let’s just say “plentiful”. Dream big everyone and again, catch our Youtube video here: Exploring Ireland!

Scotland

The Cotswolds